Provenance
The Bildeston Crown’s Chef Chris Lee writes in praise of East Anglian produce.
Have you noticed how what we eat and where we source our produce has never been more interesting? Column inches are not spared in debating the atrocities of mass produced poultry farms, Delia’s apparent support of tinned mince or the effect convenience food has had on obesity levels.
It’s great that knowing where our food comes from is such an issue but sometimes I can’t help feeling that we dwell too much on the negatives and pay scant attention to the positive. The fact is that this island nation produces fantastic food and I for one am pleased that we are finally getting round to shouting about it.
Oliver Rowe built a tv series around sourcing all the ingredients for his King’s Cross restaurant from within the M25. If I was given the same challenge to do the same, but with the geographic limtations of East Anglia, I think it would be considered a breeze.
We are particularly fortunate at The Bildeston Crown, and indeed The Lindsey Rose, the other pub within the group, in that the owner is not just a businessman but fundamentally a farmer. Although volumes required dictates that we are not totally self-sufficient (yet), our customers regularly enjoy locally reared, Suffolk rare breed, red poll beef; lamb from the farm in nearby Semer; Nedging Pork and even vegetables from the owners’ own gardens. The Game season offers up an abundance of locally shot pheasant but we do confess to going further afield for venison, albeit from the owners’ former Scottish Braeroy Estate. As for poultry we are more than happy to cross the border to Essex for Label Anglais chicken and at Christmas, Kelly Bronze turkeys.
Here in East Anglia, it is no hardship to boast that we are doing our bit for the planet by being “food miles” aware. The truth, however, is that it has been less a matter of understanding about carbon footprints and more about just loving my job of creating great dishes with produce grown or reared on my doorstep.
Meat:
We are particularly fortunate at The Bildeston Crown, and indeed The Lindsey Rose, our sister pub, in that the owner is not just a businessman but fundamentally a farmer. Although volumes required dictates that we are not totally self-sufficient (yet), our customers regularly enjoy Suffolk Red Poll beef and lamb from the farm in nearby Semer. Pork is sourced from a specialist farmer in neighbouring village Nedging. When not supplied direct from the farmer, we use M&M butchers in Stowupland which specialises in locally produced meat.
Game:
Game has been supplied by locals, indeed even guests, after a good day’s shooting. A more regular supply whilst in season is Box Tree Farm in nearby Wattisham. As well as being an excellent source mallard, partridge, pheasant, Muntjac and even a Woodcock or two, the farm offers top quality Partridge shooting in September and October and then Pheasant and Partridge days from November to January.
Fish:
For our fish we need to go slightly further afield, and use Marrfish who for 5 generations have been vessel owners. The Marr family have invested in many vessels and fishing rights, as such are proud of the unique opportunity to receive and supply exceptional quality fish, allowing us to offer a daily changing fish choice
Eggs & Cheese:
The free range eggs come from the family-run Gate Farm in Flowton. Cheese is a little more challenging and although we always have Suffolk Gold and Suffolk Blue produced in nearby Needham Market, we source a wider range of British cheeses through a specialist supplier.
Fruit & Vegetables:
We use produce from the owners’ own gardens and are currently working with the gardeners at Nedging Hall to plan requirements for the coming year. Potatoes are mainly sourced from a farm at Nedging Tye and other locally sourced vegetables are ordered through Anglia Produce in Manningtree. We also use our own herb garden and forage for fresh local mushrooms
